Appliance repairs and spares

How to Fix deep freezer not working – Guide for Westville residents

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Freezer not working? We can help

Living in  Westville comes with many perks, from the Palmiet Nature Reserve to the convenience of a quick dash to Westville Mall. However, nothing is more frustrating  faster than realizing your deep freezer—the one packed with food is starting to defrost.Whether you are a busy parent in Westville North prepping school lunches or a retiree enjoying a quiet garden in Dawncliffe, a failing freezer is a major headache. Because our Westville humidity often hovers at high levels, our appliances work twice as hard as those in drier climates.Fortunately, most freezer issues don’t require a total replacement. This guide will walk you through the DIY checks and professional fixes to get your unit back to sub-zero temperatures.

Start with the “Is it Plugged In?” Reality Check

It might sound overly simple, but you would be surprised how often a loose plug causes a “broken” appliance. In Westville, we frequently experience power surges or quick outages that can trip a sensitive DB board.

Quick Troubleshooting Steps

  • Verify the internal light: Open the lid to see if the bulb illuminates.
  • Test the wall socket: Plug in a hairdryer or toaster to confirm the outlet has juice.
  • Inspect the cord: Look for any fraying or signs that a curious pet might have nibbled the line.
  • Check the DB Board: Ensure the specific circuit breaker for the kitchen or garage hasn’t tripped.

Furthermore, the heavy vibration of a compressor can slowly wiggle a plug out of a loose socket over several months. Consequently, you should make sure the connection is flush and firm before panicking. If the outlet is dead, you might just need to flip a breaker in your garage or hallway.

2. Listen to the “Heartbeat” of Your Freezer ]

Once you have confirmed there is power, you need to listen closely to the sounds your freezer is making. A healthy freezer should have a consistent, low-level hum that kicks in and out throughout the day.

What different sounds mean:

  • Clicking noises: This often suggests the start relay is struggling to engage the compressor.
  • Total silence: If the lights are on but no one is home, your thermostat or compressor may have failed.
  • Rattling: This usually indicates a loose component or a fan blade hitting an ice obstruction.
  • Humming but no cooling: This is a classic sign of a refrigerant issue or a locked compressor.

Think of the compressor as the heart of the machine. If the heart isn’t beating, the “blood” (refrigerant) isn’t flowing to help keep your  steaks frozen. Therefore, identifying these sounds early can save you a fortune in spoiled groceries.

The Great Westville Humidity: Dealing with Frost Build-up

We all know how sticky the air can get near the University of KwaZulu-Natal campus during mid-summer. That high humidity is a silent killer for deep freezers, especially older chest models.

Why ice is your enemy

  • Insulation effect: Thick ice actually prevents the coils from absorbing heat from the food.
  • Space hogging: Frost reduces the actual storage capacity of your freezer.
  • Strain on motors: The unit has to run longer to maintain temperature, increasing wear and tear.

Every time you open the lid to grab a bag of frozen peas, moisture-heavy air rushes inside. This moisture instantly freezes onto the coils, creating a thick layer of “snow” that acts as an insulator. Ironically, too much ice actually makes the freezer less cold. If you haven’t defrosted your unit since the last Rugby World Cup, it is definitely time for a manual thaw.

 Check the Seal: The “Note” Test

Is your freezer running constantly without ever reaching the right temperature? The culprit is likely a worn-out rubber gasket, which is the seal around the lid.

How to perform the test

  1. Find a banknote: Grab a crisp R20 or R50 note.
  2. Trap the note: Place it halfway across the seal and close the lid firmly.
  3. Pull gently: If the note slides out with zero resistance, your seal is perishing.
  4. Repeat around the perimeter: Check all four sides to find specific gaps.

In our coastal environment, salt air and heat can cause rubber to perish, crack, or lose its magnetism. Subsequently, cold air escapes into your kitchen while warm Westville air sneaks inside to rot your food.

5. Clean the Condenser Coils (The Hidden Dust Traps)

Many residents keep their deep freezers in the garage or a laundry room where dust and pet hair tend to congregate. The condenser coils, usually located at the back or bottom, are responsible for releasing the heat removed from the freezer’s interior.

Maintenance Tips:

  • Unplug first: Safety is paramount when working near electrical coils.
  • Use a soft brush: Gently dislodge dust bunnies and cobwebs.
  • Vacuum the area: Use a narrow attachment to suck up the debris.
  • Schedule it: Aim to do this every six months, perhaps when you do your seasonal garden cleanup.

When these coils become coated in a thick blanket of dust, the heat has nowhere to go. The system eventually overheats and shuts down as a safety precaution. Moreover, this simple bit of “neighborly advice” can extend the life of your appliance by several years.

6. Thermostat Troubles and Temperature Settings

 

Sometimes, the “fix” is as easy as checking the dial. It is common for a stray box of frozen pizzas to bump the temperature knob when you’re digging for something at the bottom.

Pro-Tips for Settings:

  • Aim for -18°C: This is the international standard for long-term food safety.
  • Avoid “Max” settings: Running on maximum 24/7 can actually cause the coils to freeze over.
  • Listen for the “Click”: When you turn the dial from low to high, you should hear the thermostat engage.

If you adjust the dial and hear no change in the motor’s rhythm, the thermostat itself might be faulty. A broken thermostat “forgets” to tell the compressor to turn on, leaving your frozen goods in a lukewarm limbo.

7. Blocked Vents and Airflow Issues

If you own a modern upright “frost-free” freezer, airflow is everything. These units rely on internal fans to circulate cold air through various compartments.

Common Airflow Killers

  • Overstuffing: Packing every inch prevents air from moving between items.
  • Rear Wall Blockage: Placing large flat items (like pizza boxes) directly against the back vents.
  • Plastic Wrap: Loose bags can get sucked toward the fan intake.

If you have packed the freezer so tightly that the vents are blocked, you will find “hot spots” where food begins to soften. Ensure there is a small gap between your food items and the back wall of the unit. Consequently, proper organization isn’t just for the neat freaks; it’s a technical requirement for the cooling system.

 When the Issue is Internal: The Evaporator Fan

 

Does your freezer sound like a jet engine taking off from King Shaka International? Or perhaps it’s making a strange squealing or chirping noise?

Signs of Fan Failure

  • Increased noise: The sound usually stops when you open the door (in upright models).
  • Uneven cooling: The bottom stays frozen while the top shelf thaws.
  • Visual Ice: Seeing ice poking through the vents on the back interior panel.

This usually points to a failing evaporator fan. This fan lives inside the freezer compartment and pulls air across the cooling coils. If the bearings are wearing out, the noise will be unmistakable. Fixing this usually requires removing the back panel inside the freezer, which is where the expertise of a Durban North technician usually comes in handy.

 Understanding Load Shedding’s Long-Term Impact

We can’t talk about Westville appliances without mentioning the elephant in the room: the power grid. Frequent switching on and off is incredibly hard on the sensitive electronics found in newer, high-tech freezers.

How to protect your unit

  • Install a Surge Protector: Use a high-quality “fridge guard” to delay power return.
  • Keep the lid closed: A full freezer can stay frozen for 24-48 hours if left unopened.
  • Use Ice Packs: Fill empty spaces with water bottles to act as a “cold battery” during outages.

The “surge” that happens when the power returns can fry the control board in a heartbeat. If your freezer has a digital display and it has suddenly gone blank after a power cut, the main control board is likely damaged. Therefore, a small investment in protection can save you from a R10,000 replacement bill.

10. Summary Checklist for Westville Homeowners

ComponentWhat to CheckLocal Solution
Power SupplyWall socket & DB BoardReset breakers; check for surges
Gasket/SealThe “Note” TestClean with warm water or replace
CoilsDust/Pet hair buildupVacuum every 6 months
Ice LevelThickness of frostDefrost manually if > 1cm thick
ThermostatDial positionSet to -18°C; check for “clicks”

Frequently asked questions

  • How to reset freezer?

    unplug it from the wall or turn off the circuit breaker. Wait for ten minutes to allow the compressor to discharge. Plug it back in and set the thermostat to -18°C for the optimal freezing performance.

  • Why is there so much ice building up in my freezer lately?

    In Westville, our humidity often hits over 70%. Every time you open the freezer, warm, moist air rushes in and freezes instantly. If you see "snow" or thick ice, check if your door seal is loose or if you’re leaving the door open too long while unpacking groceries. 

  • Do I really need a surge protector for my freezer?

    Yes. When the grid kicks back in after an outage, a massive spike of voltage can "fry" your freezer's compressor. A dedicated fridge/freezer surge protector is a small investment that prevents a very expensive repair. 

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